Travnik is situated in the valley of the Lašva River and bordered by Vlašić Mountain to the north and Mount Vilenica to the south. The early Slav settlers gave little evidence of their presence until 500 years after their arrival to the area around Travnik.
The valley reappeared in 1244, in terms of primary historical records, when the Hungarian King Bela IV gave one of his notables a piece of land in Lasva. By that time, the area was a feudal estate of the Bosnian state.
Although remains from these centuries do not show the wealth the valley had known in Roman times, the era did have its share of castles and mansions. The Travnik Fortress was the most impressive fortress at the time, and still stands out as the best preserved of them all. This era gave Travnik its name.
The Ottoman era renewed the glory of Travnik. It was the principal city and military centre of the Ottoman Empire. It was from here that the Ottomans planed their invasions further towards the southwest. They brought mosques, religious schools, roads and water systems. They fortified the medieval fortress and built a mini-city within its high stone walls. For over 150 years, the vizier – the Ottoman Sultan's representative in Bosnia - had his headquarters in this town, attracting both consulates and trade. Travelers visiting Travnik in this era were impressed by the town and called it the European Istanbul and the most oriental town in Bosnia. Ivo Andrić's brilliant 'Travnik Chornicle' gives you a feel of this period.
TO DO & SEE
The Travnik Medieval Fort was one of the survivors of the 1903 fire, and the imposing structure, which for centuries defended the city from outside invaders, still dominates the horizon.
Travnik Fort
The fortress is open to guests. The walk up is lovely and the old quarter around the fortress has some very impressive traditional homes. Today, this is perhaps the best preserved fort in all of central Bosnia. Apart from being the administrative headquarters for Ottoman rule in Bosnia, Travnik is best known as an ancient trading place. The markets were always filled with visitors and traders from Dubrovnik, Serbia and other Ottoman territories. Just as Mostar's and Sarajevo's carsija developed into craftsmen's quarters so too did the old town of Travnik.
Travnik is the birthplace of Ivo Andrić, winner of the Nobel Laureate for Literature, author of Bridge on the Drina. He also wrote Travnik Chronicles, which portrayed his view of life in Travnik during Ottoman rule. The Ivo Andrić House is now a museum and a restaurant (Divan Restaurant: Zenjak bb, Travnik; tel: 387 30 541 971). The Sahat Kula is a yet another trademark from Ottoman times. This clock tower was built in the 18th century and towers 20 meters in the town center.
You'd be ill-advised to ignore Plava Voda (Blue Waters), a large source that flows out of the base of VlasićMountain. There is a path all the way to the source. The water is freezing cold and wonderful for a cold drink or a refreshing splash in the summer.
Near Plava Voda is the Elči-Ibrahim pasha Medresa, built in a neo-Moorish style. Its construction in 1706 was due to Travnik's growing importance within the Ottoman Empire not only as a major trade town but for Islamic Studies as well.
Elči Ibrahim Pasha Madrassa
It's hard to miss the Šarena Džamija (Multi-Colored Mosque), built in 1757. With its bright colors, its unique and intricate artistic details on the outside walls and its carved wood, it is said to be among the most beautiful mosques in the Balkans – and the only one in the country that people believe stores hairs of the prophet. It has unusual flower motives painted on the outside, and it is one of only two mosques in Bosnia and Herzegovina in which the prayer room is positioned on the first floor, with the ground floor used to conduct business.
Jeni mosque is the oldest mosque in Travnik dating back to 1549. It has been reconstructed and renovated several times since its 16th century construction by dervish orders.
Jeni Mosque, Left
The Loncarica and Hadži Ali-begova mosques are also worth a peek as great examples of Ottoman architecture.
The Hadži Ali-begova mosque is the only one in Bosnia and Herzegovina to have a sun clock-dial. This 'suncani sat' was apparently built in 1886 by the Smoljan brothers to assist the winemakers Bašbunar. Travnik has always boasted of a rather diverse local population.
In town, there is the Catholic Church of St. Ivan Krstitelja, built in 1887. Just outside of Travnik in the north Lasva Valley region is the Gospina Kapela. This kapela was built by a water source thought to have healing powers and has since became a small pilgrimage site for Catholics in the region.
St.Ivan the Baptist Church, Travnik
The Church of the Lords Source has been built on the same premises. The orthodox church of Znamenitosti from 1854 is home to many icons from the 17-19th centuries.
Southeast along the Lasva River from the Šarena Dzamija is one of the few remaining old-style Bosnian mahalas (residential quarter). These old homes, built with steep roofs to counter the effects of heavy snow, are prime examples of traditional Bosnian architecture. The houses are inhabited, giving them all the characteristics of living museums.
In the middle of town is the Zavičajni Museum on Mehmedpase Kukavice 1 (tel: 387 30 518 140). The Museum is open Monday to Friday from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Admission is 1 KM. At Galerija Terra on Bosanska Street 161 (tel: 030 511 428; 061 983 003) one can find a rich collection of local paintings, many of them depicting life in Travnik.
Eight kilometers from Travnik towards the town of Vitez is the famous Franciscan Monastery of Guca Gora. Although the Franciscan church had significant difficulties during the Ottoman times many of the monasteries continued to function. The small village of Guca Gora is situated on a hilltop overlooking the Lasva Valley. The monastery, as most Franciscan monasteries in Bosnia are, is open to the public and has an interesting library collection.
Do not miss to try Travnički Sir (Travnik Chesse), one of the finest B&H brands.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Travnik is located on the main regional road M5 (Lasva - Busovaca- Vitez- Travnik- Donji Vakuf) and it is well connected with other regional roads.
By plane
The closest airport is one in Sarajevo approx. 90 km from Travnik or 60 minutes driving by bus. All information regarding flight schedules you can get on phone: 387 33 289 100 or view at: www.sarajevo-airport.ba.
By car
Departing from Sarajevo follow road E 762 then E 73 and on the end E 661. Departing from Jajce follow road 661. Jajce - Travnik is 78 km or approximately. one hour driving.
By bus
A Sarajevo-Travnik, one-way ticket costs 14,50 KM and there are several busses during the day at: 07:30; 09:15; 10:00; 13:30; 14:00; 19:00 and 22:00
Travnik-Sarajevo at: 06:50; 07:50; 08:05; 09:00; 10:40; 10:45; 12:00; 12:15; 15:40; 18:30; 18: 55 and 19:15
Buses go from Jajce to Travnik every day at: 07:00; 08:15; 08:50; 09:10; 10:20; 13:40; 15:15; 15:30; 15:50; 17:15 and 18:00. A one-way ticket costs between 8 and 12 KM, depending on the bus company. Travnik-Jajce at: 11:15; 15:10; 15:30; 16:20; 17:10 and 17:30. A one-way ticket costs between 10 and 13 KM.
