Zenica is the largest, most industrial town in central Bosnia and is the political, administrative and cultural centre of the Zenica-Doboj Canton.
There is more to Zenica than the rather intrusive industrial zone that dominates the city's image.
Prior to the Bosnian war, Zenica was mostly known for its massive steel industry and the city grew significantly during Tito's Yugoslavia as many apartment blocks were erected to house growing mining communities.
Peeling back the socialist layer of crude architecture and bulky industry reveals the old Zenica and the true heart of the city - a quaint downtown district with mosques, Catholic and Orthodox churches, and a Jewish synagogue.
TO DO & SEE
The most attractive part of town is known as Stara čaršija, meaning old quarters. This has been the main gathering place since Ottoman times.
In the square between Serdarevića and Maršala Tita streets, you will find the Čaršijska Džamija, Medresa, Hadžimazića House and the Austrian fountain.
The Hadžimazića House is similar to the Svrzina House in Sarajevo: it is an old beg family house built in 1835 that has been preserved in its original form. The house is open to visitors from Monday to Saturday.
The entire square is lined with café's and competes with the Kamberovica Polje walkway across the Bosna River as the most popular pedestrian area in town. The City Museum and Art Gallery (Muhameda Seida Serdarevica bb, tel: 387 32 209 515; fax: 387 32 209 518; e-mail: zemuzej@bih.net.ba; web: www.zemuzej.ba). It is a very basic 'museum' of the old synagogue with a hall for local art exhibitions. It is open from 09.00 to 19.00 from Monday to Friday, from 08:30 to 16:30 on Saturday and admission is 2 KM.
On the side of town where Branilaca Bosne and Dr. Abdulaha Aska Borica streets meet are the Svetog Ilije Catholic Church and school.
Behind Branilaca Bosne on Travnička cesta is the Old Orthodox Church. I've never found it open but the architecture is admirable even from only the outside. Along the Koseva Stream, not far from the church is the Susica Mlin, an old family mill that is still functional.
Perhaps the most significant relic of Zenica's historical heritage is the Vranduk Fort on the River Bosna, 14km north of town. Vranduk is where the Baton uprising during Illyrian times ended.
After the Roman army had finally been victorious, the women and children preferred to leap into a fire over becoming slaves to the Romans. During medieval times the fort had great military significance for the defense of Srebrena Bosna. To this day this walled medieval village is still inhabited. With the newly completed restoration almost complete Vranduk has become one of BiH’s best preserved medieval fortress, with access to the main castle, information readily available and a café or two to serve you Bosnian coffee or a refreshing drink. It also holds art workshops for children and teaches the old techniques in sewing and other traditional artistic activities.
MOUNTAINS
As with all Bosnian towns there are several 'izletiste', recreational areas, in the proximity of Zenica. The most popular picnic area is at Bistričak, about 26km north of Zenica (turn at Nemila). You'll find Zenicani, people from Zenica, along the clear Ograjina River preparing a BBQ, playing volleyball and football and enjoying the sunny fields.
During the heyday of the steel industry, Smetovi was a welcome escape from the air pollution. With the town's industrial collapse the air pollution in Zenica has been reduced a lot, but people still come here in large numbers. There are well-marked trails, a restaurant, great walking paths and even a mini ski lift for beginners.
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